21 August 2019, Wednesday
We drive north today towards Gros Morne National Park, a much anticipated stop on this year’s journey. I gave up my crutches this morning. They are now neatly stowed in the rear of Vincent, buckled up next to our canoe paddles. About 2 hours into our drive we stop at Corner Brook to check the local supermarket for pies, as we’ll be stopping here before catching the ferry back to Nova Scotia. They do indeed have pies. O and I settle on a raisin pie for breakfast tomorrow. While we in Corner Brook we also stop at Harbour Grounds, a cafe with coffee, pastries and sandwiches. Here I find a brochure from Theatre Newfoundland advertising a dinner theatre in Cow Head, which is 30 minutes north (by car) of our next stop at Green Point campground. I grab the last two tickets for Sunday’s performance of Neddy Norris Night, a show which combines traditional songs of Newfoundland and Labrador with storytelling. Sounds like fun! As we are preparing to leave the parking lot, a couple we met while waiting to board the ferry pulls up next to our van to say hello, They live in Corner Brook and recognized Vincent.
Onward we drive finally turning onto Route 431 towards the Trout Brook Pond Campground. I’ve read that there is a look-off on the way in that is well worth a stop. This may be the only sunny day of our stay at this campground, so we pull off to have a look. The view of the Tablelands is stunning, but there is a large group of rather scruffy looking motorcyclists, all bearded and dressed in black. Two of them are occupying the iconic Parks Canada Red Chairs which look out on the view. As I exit Vincent one of the bikers addresses me. “Don’t mind them over there, my dear,” he says in a wonderful Newfoundland accent. “You just go right over and take your photo, and tell ’em I said so!” They all smile. Apparently “my dear” and “my love” are very common forms of address here in Newfoundland, even when speaking to complete strangers.
I take some photos and the men make many suggestions as to what we should see while in the area. One suggests the dinner theatre for which I have just gotten tickets. (O and I agree they do not look much like a dinner theatre crowd.) One suggests a walk to a waterfall in Sir Richard Squires Memorial Provincial Park as the salmon are jumping this time of year, and one suggests the boat ride on Western Brook Pond to see the fjord. He reminds me to make reservations for the popular trip. Yet another warns that we should enjoy today’s warm, sunny weather. He explains that yesterday and today were Newfoundland’s summer, but no telling what tomorrow will bring!
O and I return to Vincent and drive down to the end of Route 431 where we turn right and are soon on a gravel road to the campground. It’s one of the nicest campgrounds we’ve been in yet. Our site is large and grassy, but surrounded by trees. It feels much more private than the campgrounds we have visited thus far.
As I have discovered I can easily stand up from the ground, it is finally time to set up Wglwof, our Marmot tent. I am able to do this solo, while O hangs the tarp. Camp is soon set up, dinner eaten and dishes washed. All in all an excellent day!