Thursday, 12 July 2018
This morning is once again quite hot. We rise early, eat our free motel breakfast and are on the road before 8. We gain an extra hour as we cross into Colorado and mountain time zone. Eastern Colorado does not look much different from Kansas, but after awhile we begin to notice some hills as we drive. Soon the Rockies are silhouetted against the distant cloudy sky. Before we know it, we are at Aspenglen Campground. The ranger checks us in and warns us about the extreme fire risk and the additional, not quite so extreme, risk of bears. Since we have a “hard sided” vehicle, we are permitted to keep our food in the van, as long as all doors and windows are kept closed and locked. It is raining pretty steadily as we drive to our campsite (#32, loop C) so the decision as to whether to sleep in the van or set up Wglwof, our tent, is easy.
It’s pretty chilly here, a result of the clouds, the rain and the elevation. O and I are enjoying putting on extra layers of clothing for a change. It’s too soggy to cook, so off we go to Estes Park Brewery for dinner. Then we drive to You Need Pie, a restaurant recommended by our friend, Mike-the-Hiker. We had planned to just check the place out, but are convinced by the young lady behind the counter that we really do need pie – right now! We purchase a rather large slice of strawberry rhubarb to share later.
By now, the sun is shining brightly. We check with the ranger at the park entrance and learn that Fall River Road is open and evening is a great time to explore it. Fall River Road is an unpaved road completed in 1920 that leads up to the Continental Divide. It is one way, going up as the road is too narrow for two cars to pass each other safely. Drivers must take Trail Ridge Road to come back down.
O drives of course. The road has hairpin turns. No vehicles over 25 feet are allowed. Trailers and RV’s are also prohibited. We play leapfrog with the few other drivers out on the road this evening as we pull off at various turnouts to take in the views. Unfortunately, after about 8 or 10 photos, my good camera decides its memory card is full, even though I emptied it before leaving home, and I know there are only a few photos stored. I take out my little Panasonic Lumix and my i-phone to use instead. After many twists and turns we reach the Alpine Visitor Center at over 12,000 feet elevation. Here there is only 66% as much oxygen as at sea level.
Sunset fast approaches and the visitor center is closed. We take in the incredible views of the surrounding mountains, the tundra and the patchy snowfields. Someone notices a herd of elk emerging onto the open tundra from the forest, far below. I hurry back to Vincent (as fast as I can in the thin air) and get my good camera, deciding quickly which photos to delete to make room for zoomed in elk photos.
From the distance we hear the plaintive calls of the babies. They seem to be calling “milk – milk – milk!” to their mothers. O counts about 24 little ones. Finally we turn away and decide to climb “Huffers’ Hill” to the high point at the Alpine Center. We are glad we have Vincent with us. We break out jackets and O dons his wool hat. The other visitors in their shorts and tee shirts look at us jealously. It is cold and windy up here.
We watch the sun lower in the sky. In the valley below it is already dark. As we descend the path from the summit we are forced to stop. The entire herd of elk has climbed up to the visitors’ center and is making its way slowly across our path. We watch as the speckled youngsters try to nurse as they trot along next to their mothers. The high pitched bleating continues. Soon the herd passes over the rise, some of the elk momentarily silhouetted against the sunset on the hill top as they go.
O and I finally reach Vincent and begin winding our way down Trail Ridge Road. We miss the turn for the quickest route back to our camp. By the time we turn in, it is way past our usual bed time.