18 August 2019, Sunday
We leave for Sydney this morning, stopping at the Dancing Moose, where we have Pannekoek with apple, bacon and vodka-soaked raisins, a delicious Dutch pancake which can have a variety of sweet or savory ingredients. This little restaurant on the east coast of Cape Breton, south of the park is well worth a visit.
In Sydney we catch up laundry and blogging, and then enjoy a meal at Governors Pub and Eatery. The seafood is great!
19 August 2019, Monday
Today is a busy day! The first order of business is returning to the hospital to have my cast “popped off.” Then we drive across the street to Dr. Collicut’s office. He is happy with my ankle range of motion after five weeks in a cast. I am to use two crutches for walking for now and then decrease to one crutch and then perhaps a cane or trekking pole as I feel comfortable. It can take up to five weeks (the same length of time I was casted) until I am back to normal, or at least close to it. After he gives his medical advice we chat a bit about Newfoundland. He says it’s even more beautiful than Cape Breton. He, along with several other people, advises us to stock up on food supplies here. Choices can be limited in Newfoundland. O and I take his advice and head to a local grocery store.
Now it is time to make the 35 minute drive to the Eskasoni Cultural Journey on Goat Island. Once we arrive at Goat Island we are greeted by our tour leader. I am offered a seat on a motorized vehicle because of my crutches, but I decline. I think the two kilometer walk will be therapeutic.
As we are led around the island our guide explains how the island got its name. In the 1970’s the government tried to encourage agriculture among the Eskasoni. The people initially tried to raise cattle, but the animals all developed a sickness and died. Goats were then introduced for their meat and milk and to keep vegetation trimmed, but they ate everything. The goats fell out of favor and were isolated on this island where they eventually died out, but the name of the island stuck.
On our tour we are guided to a smudging ceremony first. This is generally used before prayer to cleanse one’s eyes, ears, mouth and heart. Today’s ceremony is not for prayer, but just to help purify the area. We are all invited to take part. The herb used today is sage, but other herbs such as sweet grass or tobacco can also be used.
Our tour continues past a red dress which commemorates aboriginal women and girls who have gone missing, a serious problem across the continent.
At our next stop an Eskasoni man explains how spruce roots and birch bark were used for building wigwams. (Wigwam is a Mi’kmaq work that means dwelling.) He shows us instruments used for spear fishing and eel hunting. The speaker also exhibits a handmade red oak bow used in deer hunting and a spear used to hunt moose. He then explains the use of a drum for long distance communication.
At the next stop one of our hosts makes dough for “10 cents bread,” and we get to bake it slowly over a fire on a stick. When the bread is done it slides off easily. The hole left in the center is really convenient for filling with butter and a molasses drizzle. We are offered tea to drink with our sweet, hot treat.
A dance stop comes next, to work off the calories from the bread. Even I manage a few dance steps. As we walk to the last stop on the tour our guide tells us stories of little people in the woods and of frightening giants with frozen hearts. Lastly we meet another Eskasoni man who shows us various traditionally made items such as bows, baskets, leather goods and spears that are used in trade.
It’s an informative and fun afternoon. The tour is very well done, and O and I are glad we came. All of the presenters are native Mi’kmaq speakers. It is wonderful that this community has been able to preserve their language and traditions and to pass them on, and that they are also willing to share them with us.