29 August 2019, Thursday This morning we return to the Visitor Centre. O wants to re-examine the model of a Knarr there, the type of boat thought to have been used by Vikings to visit L’Anse aux Meadows, the next stop on our exploration of Newfoundland. The knarr was a cargo ship, not a long boat. From the Visitor Center we return to Rocky Harbour seeking a few groceries. The
26 August 2019, Monday Western Brook Pond isn’t officially a fjord because it doesn’t communicate with the sea, but it sure looks like one, so that’s how I’ll refer to it. The valley was carved deep below sea level during the last ice age, but as the glaciers melted, pressure on the land was relieved and the boggy coastal plain rose above sea level cutting off the pond from the
25 August 2019, Sunday Four days was not enough at Trout River Pond, but there is always next year. We pack up after making a Newfoundland breakfast of fish cakes with our leftover fish from last night’s dinner and some instant potatoes. After picking up extra groceries in Deer Lake and fueling up Vincent, we drive to Sir Richard Squires Provincial Park on the advice of one of the motorcyclists
24 August 2019, Saturday Again it rains most of the night. By morning it’s looking like the clouds are undecided as to whether to rain some more or clear out. The weather report is promising sun. While we are waiting for the clouds to make a decision, we drive to Woody Point again. It’s a small community on the shore of the South Arm of Bonne Bay. On yesterday’s advice
23 August 2019, Friday Rain falls through the night and in bursts of heavy showers through the morning. We take the opportunity to catch up on the blog and to read. In the early afternoon we return to the Discovery Centre. O has more geology questions – what is the thickness of the Moho layer, the boundary between the mantle and the crust. Apparently it is approximately 500 meters. While
22 August 2019, Thursday The morning is breezy and cool as we drive to the Tablelands trailhead for the guided hike. A large group gathers. We are from all over the world, mostly Canada and the US, but also from China, Poland and Sudan. We are divided into Francophile and Anglophile groups. Our guide is an enthusiastic and knowledgeable geologist who is also very familiar with the natural history of
21 August 2019, Wednesday We drive north today towards Gros Morne National Park, a much anticipated stop on this year’s journey. I gave up my crutches this morning. They are now neatly stowed in the rear of Vincent, buckled up next to our canoe paddles. About 2 hours into our drive we stop at Corner Brook to check the local supermarket for pies, as we’ll be stopping here before catching
20 August 2019, Tuesday We breakfast early at our hotel, Cambridge Suites, and then drive 20 minutes to North Sydney to board the ferry for Newfoundland. Everything goes smoothly. Vincent is slightly over car length, (I was told to sign up as a car when I called Marine Atlantic before making my reservation) but the woman at the check in kiosk lets us through. She asks us to ensure our
18 August 2019, Sunday We leave for Sydney this morning, stopping at the Dancing Moose, where we have Pannekoek with apple, bacon and vodka-soaked raisins, a delicious Dutch pancake which can have a variety of sweet or savory ingredients. This little restaurant on the east coast of Cape Breton, south of the park is well worth a visit. In Sydney we catch up laundry and blogging, and then enjoy a
17 August 2019, Saturday This morning we say farewell to Philippe and Constance after exchanging contact information. We will have a relaxing day today, visiting some of the beaches on the eastern side of the national park. We stop first to read about whale, bird and sea turtle migration at Lakies Head. From there we drive to Black Brook Beach and explore the broader beach to the north and the