16 September 2019, Monday
It rained a bit last night so our picnic table is rather wet. O cooks up some hot water for coffee and tea, and we warm chocolate avalanche croissants in the frittata pan. Soon after breakfast we leave Butter Pot Provincial Park and drive south towards Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve, another Unesco World Heritage site. Mistaken Point is 89 miles away and just over a 2 hour drive.
The name, Mistaken Point, has nothing to do with fossils and everything to do with navigational errors. Ships’ navigators would think they had rounded the peninsula and turn north only to founder on the rocks in the shallow waters off the point. Today, the Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve protects fossil beds that are between 542 and 575 million years old. There is some controversy as to whether these ediacaran organisms were plant, animal or other. In any case, they were covered rather suddenly by a layer of fine volcanic ash, preserving them with amazing clarity.
Of course, the fossils are the main attraction here, but the 3 km guided hike from the parking area to the fossil beds is also beautiful. The rolling hills and bogs are called Eastern Hyper-oceanic Barrens, sort of like tundra, but without the permafrost. As we walk along, Cynthia and Anna, our two guides, point out the “forests” of the area – low growing tuckamore. We also get to sample ripe crowberries, partridgeberries, arctic raspberries, bunchberries, snowberries (a white berry with an minty flavor) and of course, blueberries. One of the advantages of having a group of only three people is that there are berries enough to go around. We walk past piles of flat black rocks used by fishermen in the past to dry cod. Anna points out a whimbrel or curlew as it flies by and a harrier hawk, characterized by its white rump.
When we reach the fossil beds O and I, along with Chris, the other member of this tour group, take off our shoes and pull on the socks provided by our guides. Only socks are allowed on the fossil beds to protect them from the effects of human visitation. Anna points out many different fossil types and shows us the ash layer that protected these specimens.
It’s fascinating – and amazing to see these ancient fossils. All too soon it is time to put our boots back on and hike back to our cars. As we walk back, the fog bank that’s been greying our afternoon walk rolls off shore and we enjoy sunshine and the breeze as we hike.
