18th September, 2021, Saturday
Drive to Green River, Utah
What a crazy drive! As we are leaving Grand Teton another car, exiting a turnout and heading in the opposite direction from us, drives directly towards us in our lane, while the driver looks over his shoulder for oncoming traffic in his own lane. He looks up just in time and swerves into his own lane at the last second. Whew! Close call!
As we drive we have at least 4 other close calls as speeding drivers pass us in no passing zones, etc. We also negotiate another animal traffic jam, this time with sheep as the culprits. Then we pass two badly damaged cars at different locations at the side of the road. We learn later that there had been two severe dust storms earlier in the afternoon. Perhaps that contributed to the accidents? We arrive safely in Green River Saturday evening, where we meet other Sierra Club trip members for dinner, and then retire for the night at Robbers Roost Motel.
19th September, 2021, Sunday
Green River, Goblin Valley State Park and Little Wild Horse Canyon
After a cup of coffee and a muffin with other Sierra Clubbers, we head off to Goblin Valley State Park. O and I visited the “goblins” on our first cross continent trip in 2015. It’s nice to revisit the park with more understanding of the geology and geography of this area. The “goblins” eroded from 170 million year old sandstone.
Little Wild Horse Canyon is a short drive from Goblin Valley. One can do a loop hike up Little Wild Horse and down Bell Canyon, but we hike in and back out of Little Wild Horse as we are very short on time. It is a beautiful and fantastical place, more-so as O and I have never been in a slot canyon before. Even those of us who have previously traversed slot canyons think this is one of the best.
Our Sierra Club trip does not officially begin until afternoon today. Guides from our outfitter, Holiday River Expeditions, will be preparing breakfast and supper for us each day. Tonight, dinner is marinated chicken, or garbanzos for vegetarians, with couscous. It’s delicious.
We are working hard to learn everyone’s name. There are 18 of us.
20th September 2021, Monday
Dead Horse Point State Park, Grand View at Canyonlands National Park
Breakfast is biscuits, grits, and scrambled eggs. Next we head for Dead Horse Point State Park and walk the East Rim and part of the West Rim trail. We get a view from above of our rafting put-in on the Colorado River and the first few meanders of our journey. Then we drive to Grand View at Canyonlands National Park for a distant view of the Colorado and the Green River.
Now it’s back to base camp for dinner – chili, cornbread and delicious brownies.
21st September 2021, Tuesday
Fossil Point, Horseshoe Canyon
Today we attempt to fit two days worth of activity into one day. First – Fossil Point, where we are met by a ranger who gives us a great tour of some of the fossils in the Morrison Formation, pointing out Jurassic Era bones, or rather bone impressions, from long neck dinosaurs. He explains that there are more years between the long necks and tyrannosaurus than between tyrannosaurus and us!
After our interesting visit we briefly return to basecamp since it’s on the way to our next destination – The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon. The unpaved road to Horseshoe Canyon is about 36 miles long. It takes a bit more than 1 ½ hours to get there. By now it’s after 2 pm and the out and back hike down into the canyon is a moderately strenuous 7+ miles. More than half the group hoofs it down the canyon. O and I do not want to risk blowing out his knee before our river trip. We do an approximately 4 mile round trip to the second panel of pictographs. Even without seeing the pictographs the canyon is beautiful. With the pictographs one can feel echoes of the presence of the ancient peoples of this area. I’ve have read that the Great Gallery is well worth seeing, and the members of the group who made it to the Gallery confirm this. O and I could easily spend an entire day walking in and out and viewing the pictographs. Perhaps we will have a chance to return. I think an excellent visit to this area would involve camping at nearby Goblin Valley State Park and spending an entire day on a visit to Horseshoe canyon.
After our Horseshoe Canyon visit, our driver (a fellow Sierra club member,) O, and I speed back to Green River for an early evening shower. The outfitters await us in camp, wondering where everyone is. O & I spend the rest of our time before dinner repacking our gear for the river trip. Ron, our trip leader, has noted that O and I are up early every morning. He asks us to turn on our headlights at 6 am tomorrow to encourage everyone else to get up early and pack for the river expedition.
22 September 2021, Wednesday
On the Colorado River
Our 18 person group actually manages to arrive at the headquarters of Holiday River Expeditions a few minutes early . . . We will be traveling down 96 miles of the Colorado River over the course of the next six days in 5 inflatable rafts. Two of our five guides are rookies. Our first three days will be on flat water. We will cover the rapids on day 4 and 5. Our sixth and final day will involve being assisted across a drought depleted Lake Powell by a power boat.
We are driven to our put-in in vans and are soon on the water. Each raft is rowed by one guide while we get to relax and enjoy the ride and the view. A few participants paddle one of three inflatable kayaks the outfitter has provided. The canyon, the river and our surroundings are awe-inspiring. We pause midmorning for a one mile round trip hike to an area featuring petrified wood. Eons ago this area was a tropical forest where cycads were engulfed by flood and mud flow. The cycads (a sort of cross between a palm tree and a pine tree) eventually had their organic material replaced by silica, but the cellular framework was preserved. The petrified wood looks for all the world like real wood, until you pick a piece up and realize how heavy it is.
Once back in the boats we paddle a bit further to a beach where we enjoy lunch. Later that afternoon we arrive at our sandbar campsite. Tents and kitchen are set up. The “bathroom” consisting of two “groovers” (one for liquids and one for solids,) is back among the willows, the path marked by solar lights and a red cord. There is a stop and go sign at the entry to the path to indicate whether the “restroom” is occupied.
Our Sierra Clubber compatriots are an entertaining and well-traveled group. We regale each other with our travel and family stories. Since this is a Sierra Club trip, we also discuss the importance of restoring Bears Ears as it is a deeply significant cultural site. Grand Staircase Escalante also needs protection and restoration as a “scientific” national monument. There are fossils in that area of previously unknown species, not to mention plant species that have not yet been categorized.
23rd September 2021, Thursday
On down the Canyon
O and I are up early once again. We observe tracks in the sand. We had a visitor overnight! One of our Sierra Club companions leads a stretching session on the beach as we await breakfast. After scrambled eggs and ham, hash browns, beans and a corn tortilla, we are back on the river. Our first stop today is a short hike (1 ½ miles roundtrip) to a site with pictographs and granaries. Fascinating!
We continue a short distance down the river and stop for lunch. I ask to paddle one of the kayaks after lunch. They are referred to as “duckies” because they waddle when they are paddled and they follow the rafts. I’m getting the hang of it, but after 40 minutes I’m ready to pass the kayak on to the next victim.
We continue our enjoyable ride down the river passing through one “rapid” – more like a riffle, that still manages to splash water over the gunwale on which I am perched – soaking my recently dried pants. Soon we pull onto another sandbar for tonight’s camp. Once again tents are set up and our guides prepare dinner. While I am journalling one of the guides brings over a plate of chips and dips. Some of our fellows are playing horseshoes.The temperature in the canyon cools as I sip a mug of wine, a bottle of water at my side. Life is good!
24th September 2021, Friday
Past the Confluence
O and I strike the tent early, as usual. Others are up early as well. After a breakfast of french toast, yogurt, granola and fruit (and coffee, of course) we begin a brief paddle downriver to a takeout at a gooseneck. O paddles one of the kayaks for this half hour trip.
From here some of us climb up and over the top of the meander accompanied by two guides while the other guides tow rafts and empty kayaks around the long river meander. O floats around on the rafts to protect his knee. Our climb up the cliffs is about 350+ feet. We pause at the top for a rest and photos. The descent to the other side of the meander is quite steep. In some spots we must scramble down the rocks.
Once we are loaded back into the rafts we have about another hour to go until lunch. The river here flows at about one mile per hour and the rowers add another mile per hour. After lunch we are only about four miles above the confluence of the Colorado and the Green Rivers. As we approach we can see formidable rock formations ahead.
We are informed that federal law requires anyone paddling below the confluence to wear a PFD (personal flotation device.) PFD’s must be properly buckled as well. As we proceed we pass a large sign on river right: “DANGER” – it goes on to talk about dangerous rapids. Here the guides sign up for campsites downriver. We are signed up for Brown Betty Campsite tonight. From here we will be able to hike four steep miles roundtrip up to a rock formation called The Dollhouse, which is part of the maze formation in Canyonlands National Park. We will do the hike tomorrow morning before moving on down the river.
On our way to tonight’s campsite we run our first rapid – maybe a class II – so far, so good!
In the evening, as we sit in a circle chatting and then discussing environmental issues in our home states, we are entertained by bats flying over the river. It’s good to see them, considering the devastation white nose syndrome has caused in bat colonies in the east.
25th September 2021, Saturday
Doll House, Rapids 2-10
Today is a busy day. We’re up early as the plan is to hike to the Doll House – a beautiful formation of pinnacles at the top of the canyon. The moon is still out this morning.
The hike is 4-5 miles round trip with at least 1200 feet of elevation gain. We need to be on the trail between 8:30 and 9:00 to complete the 4-5 hour hike and allow time to get on the river by 3 pm to complete 10 rapids – some of which need to be scouted. One of our companions, who needs to use trekking poles due to nerve damage in his leg, realizes that his poles are missing, most likely left behind after yesterday’s hike. I offer ours if they will extend far enough for him, as O will be staying behind this morning. (O and I are relatively short and use kids’ poles. We brought along one pair of hiking poles to share.) Happily, our poles will work fine.
After a breakfast of eggs any style, hash browns, and blueberry muffins we are on the trail as scheduled. The first mile is fairly flat with some ups and downs. I have time to photograph sacred datura along the way.
After that first mile the trail climbs steeply, but it is well maintained with short switchbacks and big step-ups. We are all huffing and puffing. As we climb, we pass an overlook where we can see an area below called Spanish Bottom. It is near the river in an area that floods in spring. Here, the ancient people who lived in the canyon raised the “Three Sisters:” corn, squash and beans. There are large patches of prickly pear there as well. My guess is that they were also part of the gardens.
Finally we reach the mesa. We’ve done very well – only about 1 ½ hours to the top. It’s beautiful up here. We can imagine many shapes and creatures in the rock formations. Someone comments that one looks like Jabba the Hutt. We hike over to a granary. This one is of different construction from others we’ve seen. It is older.
Once at the Doll’s House, we walk to an overlook at Surprise Valley. Across the river in the distance we can see the needles region of Canyonlands National Park. We are traveling the river where it runs through the Canyonlands, and our hike takes us to the Maze section of this park. After visiting the overlook and granary we visit the “Refrigerator,” so named because it is always shaded and cool. Here we eat our lunch and then begin our descent. Fortunately, it’s not quite as difficult as I thought it would be.
We return to our base camp just after 2 pm. It’s time for a talk about safety as we raft through the first ten rapids. PFD’s are mandatory. Handholds on the rafts are pointed out, and we are given instruction on what to do if we fall out of the raft. Shortly after we start down the river we reach the second rapid of the day. It’s BIG water! We ask Justin, our chief guide if that was a class III rapid. “No,” he answers, “only a class II.” He agrees that it’s big water, but it’s not technically difficult.
O and I have chosen to ride in the stern of our raft in hopes of getting less wet. On the third rapid, Justin goes through backwards. O and I are soaked, but it feels good on this hot day. I’m admiring those who are going down the rapids in the little inflatable kayaks. They will be required to ride the rafts at rapid 5 which requires scouting. After rapid 5, others take a turn in the kayaks – I’m glad I’m on the raft!
Rapid 10 has some big water also. Our camp for the night is river right just after #10. Once the rafts are unloaded, the guides jump in and swim the rapids. Some Sierra Clubbers try the rapids as well. One flips his kayak. Others try swimming. One swimmer needs to be rescued. He’s so caught up in the excitement of riding the waves, he forgot to swim to the eddy in front of camp!
O and I go down to the river for a shampoo. The water is pretty cold, but very refreshing. We dry quickly in the bright afternoon sun. And here I sit in the limited shade provided by umbrellas from the rafts, once again sipping a mug of wine and journalling.
26th September 2021, Sunday
Cataract Canyon
Today’s breakfast is custom made omelets and cinnamon toast. Then – into the rapids! I ask how many we’ll be running today and get varied answers. The reason is soon obvious – some of them run together and one soon loses count anyway.
We are on Eve’s raft today (pronounced “Ehvay”.) He’s got an interesting sense of humor and is generally a lot of fun. We are all advised to buckle our PFD’s tightly and hang on when we run the rapids. As we head down the river, Eve spies a small herd of bighorn sheep and points them out to us.
Our first rapid of note is called “Ben Hurt.” Next come drops 1, 2, and 3. The river drops 36 feet over those three rapids. Rapid 1 has some big water but there is no scouting. Rapid 2 and 3 do require scouting. Spencer is the rookie on this trip. He’s never been through Cataract Canyon before, but he has a lot of other river experience. Our raft and Braedon’s raft will go first down this technical section, which is made more complicated by big rocks. Spencer will watch from the rocks above to see the line we take. Eve warns us that any cursing we may hear as we negotiate the rapids doesn’t count. This rapid is “fondly” known as Little Niagara.” Eve works hard to keep us off the rocks. In the brief stretch of calm water below this rapid we pause to watch the next rafts come down.
Rapid 3, aka Satan’s Gut, is next. We follow the same procedure – stop to scout – Spencer watches the first rafts go down. The rapids are exhilarating – a bit scary, but exciting enough to have us all whooping and hollering as we ride through. We all applaud as Spencer negotiates these rollercoasters successfully.
Soon after these rapids we pause on a sandy beach for lunch. After lunch, O moves to the bow of our raft. I remain in the stern. Our other companions in the raft are Larry and Dave. Larry moves back to the stern to give O room forward. Eve can tell I’m in the stern to decrease the risk of being inundated by waves of water. But – he’s an equal opportunity splasher. The next group of rapids have big waves, but they are not quite as technical – an ideal opportunity for mischief! Our intrepid guide runs several of these rapids backwards, purposely aiming for waves that will soak Larry and me. I’d just managed to get warm and dry with a short hike (with the group) up a side canyon to a dry waterfall. My warm and dry condition doesn’t last long. Eve shoots through big waves that soon have me wet through again. O and Dave, in the bow, have already had waves crash over their heads. We arrive at our last evening’s camp on the river soggy, but happy. We sit in a circle on our folding chairs sipping wine and beer as our guides again prepare our supper.
The sky darkens as we eat. Once the guides are finished with kitchen duty it’s time for us all to sit together in the dark, beneath a sky teeming with stars. In our circle, we Sierra clubbers thank our guides and speak of our favorite part of the trip. O and I thank Eve for a great ride today. Garrison, one of the guides, reads a selection of poetry about the river. He seems an unassuming young man, with an eye and ear for good poetry. He has read to us on previous evenings. I later find out he is a Navy SEAL! After our gathering Eve seeks out O and me for hugs. Braedon calls us together (if we are not arachnophobes) to see a tarantula he has picked up. The tarantula jumps from his hand to the sand and then climbs O’s pants leg looking for safety. I hope the photo I take comes out OK. I did not use a flash as I didn’t want to scare the tarantula.
27th September 2021, Monday
Take out on Lake Powell
Our guides are eager to get an early start today and we oblige. We are on the water before 9. There are a few more non-threatening rapids. The guides still seek out holes to douse us. Some of us scream just for fun. The guides comment that screaming makes the rapids bigger.
After the last of the rapids we are allowed to remove our PFDs as we continue downstream. Some of our group take a turn at rowing the rafts. Our guides enjoy the break!
We are in an area where current is returning to Lake Powell because of the extremely low water. Some of the old rapids are re-emerging as the Colorado River carves its way through what is now known as the Powell Formation, the deep sediment deposited by the river behind the Glen Canyon Dam. Even with the high banks of exposed former lake bottom there remains about 100 feet of sediment below us. The guides and we rafters are rooting for the demise of the dam and Lake Powell. The Glen Canyon Dam is often referred to as the “most hated dam in the world.” This dam has destroyed an incredible running river, inundating side canyons rich with Native American artifacts. What a mess we humans have created!
Part way down the flatwater we are met by a small raft with a 20 HP engine. It is piloted by Nick, the guide who prepared our meals while we were at Green River State Park. Our 5 rafts are tied together to form a barge and Nick and his red raft power us to our take-out on Lake Powell, 2 hours further on.
Here we unload and climb up the bank a good distance to what used to be the low water take-out before the current severe drought brought the lake level down substantially further. From our high perch we watch as our rafts are pulled up the steep bank one by one by a 4WD Holiday van. The guides run to put rollers under the raft as each one is pulled up the steep bank. It seems like a re-enactment of how the pyramids were built (only without the 4WD.)
Once the rafts are loaded on trailers we all mask up and find seats in the vans. We are pretty quiet for our 90 minute drive back to Green River. I’m reviewing the journey as we drive and picturing the almost hypnotic canyon walls beneath which we rode today. This trip and other similar trips we have taken instill a deep love for these indescribably beautiful places. How can we not protect these precious lands? How can we not expand the areas under protection?
Our journey ends back in Green River where we all meet at Ray’s Tavern after very welcome showers. We enjoy a final meal together, exchanging email addresses and phone numbers and hoping to meet again in the future.