Monday 30 July 2018
Today is a hiking day. After a breakfast of chocolate pancakes we drive down to the Saddlebag Lake access road. It is just east of the Tioga Road entrance station. We have a bumpy drive up a narrow gravel road to the parking area just across from the dam at the end of Saddlebag Lake. We walk across the dam and turn north, hiking along reddish glacial scree. It wouldn’t be a proper subalpine hike without seeing marmots, so a mom and her baby provide us with some entertainment.
Once past Saddlebag Lake the terrain turns to green, beautiful subalpine meadows dotted with ponds and lakes connected by bounding streams. Wildflowers add more color, and butterflies and birds abound. It is beautiful despite the persistent smoky haze, which has at least decreased significantly since last night.
We finally arrive at Steelhead Lake where we have our lunch along the shore, just opposite a waterfall which feeds meltwater from the snowpack on the surrounding peaks into the lake. O and I soak our feet as we munch. It is finally time to move on. We dry our feet, pull on our boots and continue along the trail to picture perfect Shamrock Lake. The trail here becomes a bit more challenging. We pick our way over more glacial scree and up and over rocky ridges. At times the tail is difficult to follow. Along our way we meet a fisherman heading in the opposite direction. He is scouting the trail for an older woman hiking alone, who is having difficulty finding her way. We point them in the direction of the proper trail to Steelhead Lake.
Meanwhile we continue to pick our way along the north shore of Helen Lake. At one point the trail seems to disappear over a cliff. We can see where the trail resumes below. Finally, we find some cairns that lead us down a relatively safe path. I’m amazed that the woman going counterclockwise managed to make it up the cliff. I am even more amazed when we get to the outlet of Helen Lake and have to pick our way along another cliff to get to the stream crossing.
From Helen Lake we climb up to Lundy Pass. Here we are on eye level with snow pack. We pass Hummingbird Lake and find the trail back to Saddlebag Lake. On this last section of the hike we are threatened by darkening clouds, rumbles of thunder, occasional lightning flashes and some light rain. We manage to escape a major downpour. We both hope heavier rain is falling on the Ferguson Fire.
On our home stretch O is joined on the trail by Matthew, a fisherman. He recommends a short but steep hike to Gardisky Lake, a beautiful place he says to just sit and watch nature. We just might check it out tomorrow.