12 September 2016, Monday
The night sky remains clear, and it is a cold -4 degrees C overnight. We manage to keep warm, however. As we ready breakfast the sky is blue, and distant white mountain peaks are visible, but as we eat, mist from the river rolls in and the world turns gray. We are hopeful that this is a temporary setback.
After breakfast, we finish reorganizing the car and then drive to the visitor center. Jazz is just beginning to warm up as we arrive. O & I have about 1 hour before we are to meet Mike. We explore the exhibits which cover a variety of topics ranging from declining numbers of caribou in the park to plate tectonics and the fossil discoveries in the Burgess Shale. There will be more to explore another day.
Mike shows up on schedule and we discuss seeing Takakkaw Falls which lies on the other side of Kicking Horse Pass towards Field. We are told by the person at the information center that this is also where the Iceline trailhead can be found, one of Yoho Park’s iconic hikes. We decide to go see Takakkaw Falls and then hike only part of Iceline, as we will be getting a bit of a late start. The sun is bright by the time we leave.
Takakkaw Falls is magnificent. In fact, the name means ‘magnificent’ in Cree. Mike thinks the falls are as impressive as Yosemite Falls. From the falls parking area we find the trailhead for Iceline and begin our ascent. Mike is happy to go at our usual slow pace. It provides him plenty of time for photos. We follow the trail upward through huge conifers. It is a steep climb which is made easier by numerous switchbacks, beautiful views and good conversation. We are soon above treeline gazing at spectacular views of glaciers and mountain ridges.
As we meet returning hikers they tell of even more amazing views “just around the next bluff.” One hiker tells us the views will knock our socks off! Indeed, when we stop for lunch we find an abandoned sock at our picnic spot. I guess someone had at least one sock knocked off.
After our late lunch, uninterrupted by hail or rain, we hike a bit further along another ridge from which we can see the toe of the glacier and a small glacial lake at the bottom. Here we decide it is time to turn around and hike back down.
As the sun drops behind the ridge, the colors of the surrounding peaks develop more depth. Mike and I continue taking photos. The warmth of the sun has increased the flow over Takakkaw Falls which is visible and audible across the valley. With the lowering angle of the sun’s rays we can now see a “mist bow” in the spray from the falls.
We finally return to the trailhead and take the short path to the base of the falls. Along the way, O gets a photo of me, sitting in one of the park’s red chairs, photographing the falls. We part ways with Mike back at the parking lot. It is growing dark and the temperature is falling rapidly. O and I find a pub for a late dinner and Big Rock Traditional Ales. And now – we are both ready to sleep.