15 October 2017, Sunday
Torrey, Utah to Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah
We leave the hotel relatively early this morning and begin driving Route 12 W. Our first destination on this scenic drive is the unmarked trailhead to Upper Calf Creek Falls at 0.2 miles past milepost 81. We pass through the small town of Boulder, Utah on our way and see Hell’s Backbone Grille, another of Gretchen’s recommendations. Our timing should be perfect for lunch here after our hike. The directions to the trailhead in our ‘WOW’ book as we have come to call it, are spot on, and we easily find the turn-off. (Hiking from Here to Wow: Utah Canyon Country by Craig and Kathy Copeland. We get many of our ideas of places to hike in Utah from this excellent guide.) Before we begin our hike I sign the trail register. I note that another couple, from West Chester, PA, hiked here a few days ago. They commented on the beautiful hike and left a plea to the effect, “Trump and Zinke want to shrink Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument. Don’t let the morons do it!” Couldn’t agree more!
Our hike to the falls begins with a steep descent over white Navaho Sandstone slick rock. The white rock is strewn with black boulders, basalt from ancient volcanic activity. After a sharp descent we reach a sandy path and make our way along the beautiful canyon to the falls, actually a series of small cascades, which drop into pools. Within the pools are deep kettle holes. It is a beautiful and peaceful place. We return the way we came. Going up slick rock always seems easier than going down.
O and I return to Boulder and Hell’s Backbone Grille. (Named after a local rock formation.) There are large signs in front of the quaint building saying, “Save Grand Staircase – Escalante.” It’s our kind of place. We have a delicious lunch of ‘Jenchilidas’ with brown rice, beans and crisp potato cakes flavored with a hot sauce of just the right spiciness and sweetened with a drizzle of honey. Yum!
After lunch we continue westward on Highway 12. It is my turn to drive. We pull out at most of the scenic overlooks. Then we come to the “Hogback,” a section of the highway with sharp but scenic, drop-offs into canyons on both sides of the narrow road. The speed limit here is 25 mph and I can see why! The views are spectacular. Any faster and there would be a pile of flattened cars in the canyons on either side.
Highway 12 continues through other small towns. We are generally driving at an elevation of 6000 to 7000 feet. Finally, in Cannonville, we reach the turn-off to Kodachrome Basin State Park. It got its name years ago when National Geographic did a spread on the area and dubbed it Kodachrome Basin due to its spectacular colors. We find our campsite and are soon set up for the next three nights. Tonight promises to be chilly. It is already only 6 degrees C and the starry sky is crystal clear.