7 September 2015, Monday, Labor Day

We emerge from the tent about 7:30, and there is a strange bright light
in the sky!  We haven’t seen the sun since Wednesday evening, Sept 2.
We cook up a bacon bit-cheese-potato cake for breakfast, and then pack
for a trip up to Ptarmigan Tunnel in which we will gain 2300 feet
over the course of a 5.4 mile hike. On our way to Iceberg Lake
yesterday we met some hikers who had turned back from the Ptarmigan
Tunnel Trail because of thigh deep snow. They could not find the
trail. The elevation at the tunnel is 7200 feet. It was carved
through an arete to allow hikers passage to the next valley. We are
well aware that we may not be able to reach the tunnel, but we put on
our gaiters, bring lots of layers and snacks, and figure we will go as
far as we can safely go.

The first part of the hike is warm and sunny, and we probably look a bit
out of place with our gaiters. Our path retraces part of the hike we
did yesterday to Iceberg Lake. At a bit more than 2 miles we turn to
the right and begin a steeper ascent. We walk along green meadows and
aspen and pine forests on what looks like a large terrace next to
glacier-carved cliff faces glistening with water and, at intervals,
waterfalls from snowmelt. It is pleasantly cool and sunny, and it
seems impossible that there could be snow ahead on the trail. A few
parties pass us on the way down from the tunnel. Some of the hikers
offer advice: stay in the deep footprints in the snow, they are more
stable, gaiters are a really good idea, watch you step and use your
trekking poles liberally. No one tells us we won’t make it.

We reach Ptarmigan Lake where there is some snow on the ground and the trail
begins to get a bit slushy and slippery. We stop for a snack, the
last of our Pennsylvania brownies, before beginning the final mile
which ascends the arete along a series of switchbacks through knee
deep, and at times thigh deep, snow. We can see tiny figures on the
snowy wall as they carefully pick their way along. A tall African
American woman with a brightly colored hat comes down the trail
towards us. I ask her if she made it to the tunnel. “Go for it!”
she says, “It’s well worth it. You have the right clothes and the
path is beaten down for you!”

We finish our snack and begin our ascent. I feel like I’m on a black
diamond ski trail. Ahead of us is a young couple speaking Chinese,
accompanied by a guide. The young man is wearing a light shirt and
jacket and trail runners. The young woman has on sneakers and no
socks!  We think they are crazy, but they make it to the tunnel ahead
of us. It is pretty obvious that the first people up here after the
storm had no idea where the real trail was and created their own
path. At one point the trail goes straight up to the next switchback.
I’m not looking forward to coming back down.

We finally reach the steel door of Ptarmigan Tunnel. It looks like we
are entering a Dwarven mine. The view back down the valley is
beautiful, but through the tunnel the view from the other side of
Ptarmigan Wall is spectacular – range after range of snowy
mountains with brilliant blue Elizabeth Lake below. We stop for
photos and then return through the tunnel. There is a brave chipmunk
on top of the snowbank near the tunnel opening, and we can hear what
we assume are marmots whistling in the distance on the cliff walls.

We begin our descent and carefully pick our way down the trail. The muddy,
icy, straight down part is not fun.  We breathe a sigh of relief when
we arrive back at Ptarmigan Lake. From there the return trip is very
enjoyable. We stop along the way to photograph a herd of goats
grazing in the meadow below the cliff face with a waterfall backdrop.

Back at camp we cook up a batch of spicy lentil-rice stew, finish the last
of our wine from home and fall into bed.