1 September 2015, Tuesday

We have a great breakfast in Missoula at the Hob Nob Cafe. A sign in the
restaurant has one of those 1950’s smiling Moms saying, “Drink
coffee. Do stupid things faster and with more energy!”  Back at the
Motel 6 we chat for awhile with a wheelchair bound vet with a mop of
wind-blown curly dark hair. He is travelling the country solo on his
trike. He is from Rhode Island and does a lot of work for vets. This
trip is to commemorate vets who have been suicide victims. He notes
there are far too many…even one is too many. We are soon back on
the road and heading out of town, north to the still hazy mountains.

We can see glaciers on the tops of the mountains far to the north. We enter
the Flathead Indian Reservation. There is an animal crossing over the
highway. We drive through the reservation and turn onto Rt 35 which
progresses up the eastern shore of Flathead Lake. We are surrounded
by National Forest. The Bob Marshall Wilderness is to our right with
peaks 7000-9000 ft high. We find ourselves saying “Wow!” …a lot.

After reviewing the weather forecast earlier today, we have decided that
our best course of action might be to camp on the east side of
Glacier after all. We are keeping an open mind. We stop at the Apgar
Visitor Center on the western side of Glacier where we learn that
Going to the Sun Road is now open all the way through to the east
side and the summer crowds are lessening, although today is fairly
busy as it is the first non-smokey day in quite awhile. We decide to
head east to the Many Glacier campground. We are advised to avoid St.
Mary Campground. There have been daily bear sightings there and
soft-sided campers (tents) are not permitted at present. We had been
planning on Many Glacier anyway. It’s one of the premier hiking
destinations in the park.

It is now my turn to drive. We head onto Going to the Sun Road. It is
reputed to be one of the most spectacular drives in the country.
After driving Needles Highway I figure this should be a piece of
cake.  Wrong again!! Going to the Sun Road is absolutely
breathtaking. I must admit, my palms were sweaty and I was hugging
the center line of the road when we got up to Continental Divide
elevation. The road snakes its way over the continental divide with
each view more awesome than the one preceeding! Part of me wants to
stop to look out from the viewpoints…another part of me is afraid
to get too close to the edge of the highway on the pull-outs. We do
stop for some photos along the way. Ahead on the twisty road I see
cars stopped, but there is no pull-out there. What’s going on?

A very healthy looking black bear is sauntering down the road. He walks
right in front of our car, puts his front paws on the wall to look
over the edge, as if to see what all the fuss is about. Then he
continues his walk up the highway. Our first bear of the trip.  At
least we are in the car!

We finally arrive at Many Glacier Campground. There are rock walls
surrounding our campsite. We are visited by both the campground host
and a ranger to ensure we know the rules for food storage. Anything
possibly scented – dishes, food, Coleman stoves, cosmetics – all
must be stored in the car or in the metal bear vaults at each
campsite. There are fines for disobeying.

O points out to the ranger that our neighbors across the road have started a
campfire despite the hazardous dry conditions and high winds and
multiple warnings about fire bans. Even cigarette smoking is not
allowed. The ranger talks to our neighbors and the fire is quickly
put out.

We prepare our dinner, then clean up and go to find the trash dumpster.
Another camper asks us if we know where the amphitheater is. There is
supposed to be a talk by a Blackfeet man this evening. We are
interested also and head off for the talk. The man has a stream of
consciousness way of talking. He tells us about his difficult youth
and how he found the right path by paying attention to his
grandmother’s stories. Now he gives back to his community by running
programs for Blackfeet youth.

The night is clear, the wind is blowing, the stars are appearing.  Our
first night in Glacier.